Sunday, February 25, 2007

Local residents BBQ success

Over 70 people gathered today at our house for a bbq in the 26 degree sun. The annual residents barbeque was a glorious success.

As people arrived, I greeted them and gave them a name tag, quietly introducing myself as the butler, but that I shouldn't really tell them that as the Lord and Lady of the house don't like to brag. I ended up wearing an apron and doing a few dishes, which was noted by a few of the older ladies. I quipped that I was having to do all the work since the other two staff left but was enjoying it all the same. I got some serious interest in my services. If I was staying for any length of time, I think I would have scored myself a butlering role.

I am still waiting for World Vision to suggest a route home. If they can't do something this week, then I think I will head for Singapore or Thailand.


I have applied for a few full time jobs in the UK, since my work ethic has been healed by some real work these last few months.

Got to go. The cats need feeding and the hankies need ironing.

Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Earthquake hits Auckland - 4.5 richter scale

Exactly one hour ago, Auckland experienced an earthquake measuring 4.5 on the richter scale.


At first I thought someone had slammed a door (though no one else was in) and that the reverberation was the result. However, the reverberation continued, causing the wall and the couch to sway. It was as if the room was made on balsa wood and was skewing in the wind. The swaying was akin to being on a boat on still water with a slight swell. The flexing in the wall repeated over approximately 5 seconds. It was not until 20 seconds after the event that I realised what I had experienced.


The house where I am staying is a timber frame villa so the swaying would have been exaggerated due to the house being on stilts. It was un-nerving to say the least.


Check this link for full details.



Reference Number: 2699766/G
NZ Time: Wednesday, February 21 2007 at 9:00 pm
Latitude, Longitude: 36.55°S, 175.02°E
Focal Depth: 15 km
Richter magnitude: 4.5
Region: Auckland Volcanic

Friday, February 16, 2007

Tour to Cape Reinga

Last week I joined my friend Karen to see Northland and Cape Reinga. I have just arrived back in Auckland after an amazing trip to the northern most point in NZ- as near as I could get to home without getting wet.

The weather was amazing and the beaches like nothing you'll see in Britain.
Highlights: a 10km walk through forest jungle.

Swimming off the Cape.
A quad bike trip round the headland below Ninety Mile Beach.
A kayak trip near Doubtless Bay.


The Cape lookout allows you to see where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Oceans meet. There is a line between them. No joke. The differently angled lines of waves meet at 45 degrees and waves break against each other in the middle of open water, sometimes appearing as if they are chasing each other left, then right. When they meet head on the spray massive.

We experienced one night in the worst backpackers I've seen since I was in Russia in 1995. You have to pay a dollar for 5 minutes for a shower that dribbles on cold and disappears on hot. I spiked my foot on the broken lino and drew blood.

Last week I accidentally met the best friend (Jane) of the beautiful and feisty Kiwi girl I dated when I was at uni (Miriam). This chance meeting resulted in a phone call to Dubai to speak to her for the first time in 10 years. And the address of Jane's relatives in Doubtless Bay in Northland. Christine and Fred regularly have guests and we were encouraged to call by. We did and they were fantastic. Over 2 nights, we had some fascinating conversation and witnessed the benefits of an alphabetized database for the larder, the garage and the bookshelves.

Current Travel Plans:
Some brilliant contacts have come through for India. However there may be delays in getting the visa and immunisations sorted out. So it is still not absolutely decided if I am coming home via Chennai or Singapore. But whatever happens I aim to be back in Bristol by about the 20th March. And then on to Sheffield until the summer.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Bird lady

I could tell by her eyes that she was simply not well. She was tall and very thin. Her cheekbones were pronounced, her deep set eyes peered down her pointy nose with a strange mix of concern and intensity only seen in the eyes of someone who is quite simply insane.
There was no sign in her mannerism that she was aware of any of the 8 or so other passengers waiting with her on the platform. At her feet, 30cm away, was the pigeon. Her head tilted inquisitively to the side, as the bird pecked at some invisible crumb. She began to crouch ever so slightly, eyes still softly transfixed, mad.

Then suddenly, she crouched fully with an outstretched arm which descended with expert accuracy directly onto the unsuspecting bird. Its wings splayed and then it froze with fear as she manoeuvred around her firmly planted arm to gather it up with two hands…. and put it in her bag.

More than two of us waiting passengers stopped and stared with in absolute incredulity and disbelief. She calmly sat sideways on the bench doing something to the bird in her bag. Still with no sign of awareness of any body else, and with an air of complete normality, she got up. With even, calculated moves and with head held high she entered the waiting train carriage, holding in front of her a crumpled brown paper sandwich bag.

Had she wrung its neck? Was she going to take it home and eat it? Was the crumpled paper bag brought specifically for this purpose? Her technique for capturing the bird was coldly, expertly calculated. She had clearly done this before.

A shifty looking lad in a red shirt stamped out his cigarette as we exchanged glances of disbelief. A few moments later, as I stood in the doorway to get fresh air, he came level with me.
“Is that mad woman on the train with that bird?”
I hushed him with my lowered voice.
“Yes. She’s just there, a few seats up”
“She’s mad she is. Who goes around picking up filthy pigeons.”
“Perhaps she’s hungry” I said, as if that would explain everything.
He shuddered theatrically but with contemptuous disgust and jumped on the next carriage as the guard signalled it was time to depart.

As we moved off she paid no further attention to her captive. She slid down in her seat slightly, rested her head back and closed her eyes. I thought I saw the mildly arrogant triumph of a serial killer akin to the portrayal of Hannibal Lecter’s grotesque peacefulness after some horrific gruesome crime.

I wanted to speak to her, to tentatively say hello and enquire about the bird. Her countenance forbade it. How can you ask “Are you going to make pigeon pie?” without sounding at least a little judgemental? I might as well say “Are you going to put that in your cauldron?” and go straight for the jugular except I was afraid she might go for mine with some fearsomely cold and calculated technique like she used on the bird.

If I was watching a movie, I would have been marvelling at the formidable acting performance. Sadly, this woman was just going about her daily business in a world where pigeon collecting is normal.

Two stops into the journey, the ticket collector approached her.
“Excuse me madam, do you have pigeon in your bag?”
The shifty lad had obviously grassed her up.
She matter-of-factly stated that she had. “Is there a problem?”
The conductor explained that there was.
She very calmly opened the bag and offered him a view, explaining that she had seen it on the ground and, look, there is something tied round both its feet, and she had nail scissors, and was going to cut it free, was going to take it to the vet.

Her response had the tone and detail of a well rehearsed delusion, an elaborate obfuscation of some darker motive. He had no choice but to relent, not because she had tugged on his heart strings with the story, but that her eyes told him she would tug on his heart strings if he didn’t leave her alone.

Okay, so I may be reading too much in. But how many people do you know who would expertly catch a street pigeon in broad daylight, in full view of the public and the float eerily onto public transport carrying said bird in a paper bag brought specifically for the purpose, and act as if absolutely nothing is out of the ordinary, and manage to give off vibes which say ‘Don’t talk to me or I will eat your liver with a nice chianti.’

This was at 11.35am on a Thursday morning. Makes me think platform 3 of Wellington station would turn into a scene from Michael Jackson’s thriller if it was 11.35pm on a Saturday night.

Anyway, enough from me. I am off to pick up a couple of seagulls...

Quad bike trip. Ninety-mile Beach, Northland.

Friday, February 09, 2007

Don't mention the war...


Travelling around New Zealand I have met loads of Brits. Many are here to escape the high cost, high pace rat race in the UK. If they haven’t already emigrated, they are either backpacking or touring in the trademark lifestyle camper vans which are home from home on the road tour and only marginally less annoying than caravans. There is no sign of the Costa del Crass package tourists, no beer bellies, tattoos or string vests.

Interestingly, there seems to be tons of Germans. Tall, impeccably dressed and demonstrating their excellent command of the English language. And they've all had a lie-in. There are few enough people here to mean that there is no need for them to get up early and reserve the best spot on the beach with a large towel. And no one mentions the war.

I was at a hostel recently where I met some interesting characters. The lads in my dorm room were 2 British cyclists on a 12 day ride covering 80-110 kms a day and a lad from Holland who was a marine architect who works for two years solid and then takes six months holiday. Then there was Henrich from Sweden on the F650GS hire bike going the other way. Conversation was very entertaining, liberating even because we were all in the same boat, all equally foreign and on neutral ground.

We got to talking about Europe and I asked the Dutch guy how they view the Brits. Favourable vibes ensued but he quickly turned his focus to the Germans and how the Dutch really hate the Germans. I tried to steer the conversation away from broad-brush schism with what I hoped was a benign story about my dad and his cottage in France, and the veteran farmer with whom his only commonality is their dislike for the Germans. Their discussions about the Franco-German neighbour who hangs her bras on dad’s fence wire see his pidgin French sign language abilities extend to making pistols with his fists, screwing up his face to take aim and scowling ‘Doit-shh’ likes a pirate. You can see the link but it failed to divert the conversation. Oops

The quiet guy behind us seemed to shrink a little further into his chair. His wife appeared saying something like “Duu bist ein kluggshieser ” or “Halt, dies ist Hammer Timen”.
Arrgghh, Deutsche!. Don’t mention the war. I did – twice – but I think I got away with it.

Keeping our heads down continuing with a jigsaw puzzle that was patently lacking all the pieces, we changed the subject to motorbikes and the Germanic sounding Henrich joined in. Luckily he was Swedish and we hadn’t gotten round to moaning about IKEA flat pack wardrobes or complaining about Volvo drivers. Phew.

Henrich the Swede

He was enjoying his motorbike tour, and the usual repertoire of bike geek drivel ensued. The topic of speeding proved rather illuminating about our different European experiences of being European.

I unwittingly confirmed that the British do indeed think they are superior abroad by observing that NZ can’t issue me demerit points because my British license is untouchable.

Henrich showed the Swedes are ubiquitously fair. Speeding fines in Stockholm are means tested. Mr Nokia got zapped when visiting from Finland and was fined a million euros for 12km over the limit.

And the Dutch do indeed give nothing away. Thoren described with a certain amount of self effacing amusement that they can be fined for just 1km over the limit. In fact there are fines for everything. You can be fined for going too fast, for going too slow, for going through a red light, for going through a red light too fast, for accelerating too much to catch a green light. All this, but you can’t be done for smoking drugs. There’s even cafes for the purpose.

There is a lot to be said for travelling to see culture. You encounter culture whenever you meet anyone overseas, even if they are from just over the channel but 12000 miles from home.

These Dutch and Swedish examples of culture are interesting because they are reassuringly ‘over-there’. Whilst there are a few aspects of NZ culture which can remain reassuringly over here, there are many cultural aspects we could do with importing to UK.

New Zealand is often likened to the England of the 1950s. Another way of saying there are three times as many sheep than people, the population is manageable, the pace of life is slower and people rarely lock their doors (in the smaller towns at least).

As I prepare to leave here for the next adventure, I am already bracing myself for the culture shock when I get back to Bristol. Too many people, too much traffic, too much pollution and everything’s expensive.

If this report from the BBC is anything to go by, (http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/4610755.stm) I might well be back here before big brother breaks Britain.

"The government's proposal to introduce road pricing according to distance travelled will mean you having to purchase a tracking device for your car and paying a monthly bill to use it. The tracking device will cost about £200 and in a recent study by the BBC, the lowest monthly bill was £28 for a rural florist and £194 for a delivery driver. A non working mother who used the car to take the kids to school paid £86 in one month. On top of this massive increase in tax, you will be tracked. Somebody will know where you are at all times. They will also know how fast you have been going, so even if you accidentally creep over a speed limit in time you can probably expect a Notice of Intended Prosecution with your monthly bill."


[to sign the petition against GPS road user charges visit http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/traveltax/
If you feel strongly enough, pass on the link.]

Wednesday, February 07, 2007

Wellington Sun

I am back in the North Island. Windy Wellington has transformed into sunkissed paradise.

Working in Picton for the last 10 days was great. It included a 2 night trip away to the marine farm on the other side of the Cook Strait. We crossed the channel in the 8.2m workboat. I took some Sea Legs pills. We left at 5.30am in 35knot winds and 2 metre swell, following behind the ferry Arotere. Large vessels flatten the water which improves the sea conditions for smaller following craft. I hate to think what it would have been like without the shielding of the ex P&O cruiser. I wasn't sick and I wasn't scared, but we were thrown around a bit. I thought that lying down would help me avoid banging my head again as the boat crested the waves and slammed down into the watery bowl. It was not a good idea, I concluded, after about 4 large falls from high water which created a weightlessness in my body as I left the matress for a split second, only to be slammed down like I had been dropped on the canvas by Giant Haystacks


The only option was to stand on the bridge and hold on, letting the knees act as suspension as I rode the waves like a surfboard. A white knuckle ride - literally. I've never experienced anything like it.

We arrived and began two days work of replacing the backbone to a marine farm installation. We spent the night onboard in the Marina amongst some of the most expensive yachts and cruisers in the south island. With full use of the marina facilities it was a bizarre aqua-motorhome camping experience with posher than usuall clientele. The Royal Signals yacht ADVENTURE was berthed opposite us, being prepared for the next leg of her round the world trip which went Plymouth - Las Palmas - Rio De Janeiro - Cape Town - Perth - Sydney - Hobart - Wellington continuing on to Buenos Aires, Antigua and back to Portsmouth. I hope they had a good supply of Sea Legs. [any 'yotties' can follow the progress at http://www.mercurychallenge.mod.uk/]



Anyway, our trip home was calmer. After a couple more days work in Marlborough Sounds and a birthday party for 10 year old Philip, I departed Picton for the last time this morning on the 8am Bluebridge ferry.



Travel plan update: Everything has yet to come together. Since my last post, I have determined that the ride across central Asia will have to be postponed owing to time constraints and bike export problems. As a compromise, I hope to spend a month just in India, before heading back to the UK. Exact dates to be confirmed. I have already acquired 2 contacts in Chennai (formerly Madras) and despite an initially cool reaction from World Vision UK I still hope to see some development work there somehow (there are no British supported projects in the Chennai region so my offer to report back on project activity has little value for them).

Still going to see the northernmost cape next week. It might be possible to see some of Australia before I get to India. So watch this space. Do you have any contacts in southern India? - drop me a line.