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Scandanavia, Iron Maiden and a Tornado
After the last epic bike journey to Morocco and the edge of the Sahara, I thought it would make sense to reach another line of extremity on the map and headed for the Arctic Circle this summer. I am writing this online on the ferry across the Baltic Sea from Finland to Germany, after having completed a long 6000km circle of Scandanavia, culminating in Pori at the Sonisphere festival where Iron Maiden were headlining.
The concert was blighted by a huge unexpected storm which some were calling a tornado (not the first one this month in southern Finland) and which brought hail, wind and rain enough to rip apart the second stage and drown Motley Crue's gear causing their cancellation from the bill. Despite some 40 injuries (inc 2 serious) the show carried on 2 hours behind schedule and Iron Maiden played a gig, which was for me, the most mindblowing live performance I have ever seen. I haven't been so memorably impacted since I first saw them on film when I was 12. I didn't look too out of place amongst the 60,000 strong crowd of Finnish rock fans. I was one of the few not dressed in black but despite Finland's reputation for fanatically following for metal, there was no 'moshing' and little exuberance past raised fists and punching the air. I must have looked a bit mental with my version of headbanging and I was more effervescent than any around me but it meant I was having a better time. Up the Irons!
The roads in Scandanavia are excellent, speed limits are low, sometimes frustratingly low but everyone stick to them. It means you can take in the view. Sweden and Finland are a bit flat and the roads mostly lined with pine trees so I spent a few too many days slightly disappointed with the riding. The minor roads are much more fun but often don't lead anywhere so crossing the country off-road where possible is not really possible. I was under pressure to make it round in time for the gig so I might have found better routes with a better map and more time. Norway however is an instant eyefiller. Everywhere you turn there are mountains, fjiords, craters, volcanic lakes and it equals New Zealand in its magnificence. I will definitely be going back and taking some fellow bikers along to share and enjoy.
Wild camping is allowed throughout Scandanavia and in the last 14 days I have only spent 2 nights in a hotel, 5 nights at couchsurfers and the rest in pine forests in the tent. I have always hated camping but this has changed during this trip. A decent Airic-slim infatable matress made the difference and saved me upwards of 50 Euros a night even for the the most basic of accommodation. Scandanavia is more expensive than the UK in every single way but wild camping and shopping in Lidl made it far greater value for money than the same kind of trip in UK. You don't get anywhere near the feeling of wilderness in England. Everywhere belongs to someone, there is always a fence or a border and in comparision to Scandanavia, totally restrictive.
Reaching the Arctic circle sounds adventurous but in summer of course the roads are fine and there is no real challenge. But I have the picture of me under the sign which marks the line on the map. Due to time restraints I didn't make it to the northernmost point in Europe, Norway's Nordkapp. But that will be for next time.
I have met some great people, especially through CouchSurfing which really is a marvellous concept. In almost every case (because I cannot ever know how far I will get on this kind of long haul ride) I would arrive in a town, logon to CS and find local people who looked like we might get on and sent them a message for last minute accommodation. Three out of five times I was answered within an hour. In every case I was answered and could have been hosted had I mailed earlier... and all this made possible but the existence of wifi in almost every garage, McDonald's and motorway restaurant in Scandanavia.
So, now it's back to UK to prepare for a third year at school, but not before I zoom across to see my dad on his birthday at his cottage in France and then south from there to catch up with Xavier who, unbelievably, decided to cycle round France with Gabrielle immediately after returning from his successful cycle trip all the way to Korea.
From September I will be teaching Y3 instead of Y2 because the timetable will allow me to also teach creative drama to Y5 and Y6. This will a hugely rewarding part of next year, a development to my teaching experience and a chance to see the kids develop and channel their confidence and energy in ways that will help teamwork and language skills.
Pictures link: here